Weekend in Nikko

Been meaning to write about our outing last weekend to Nikko. Only two hours by train from Tokyo, Nikko felt worlds away from the city life and the crowded skyline of Tokyo.  I, for once, took initiative to make a get away plan for the weekend.  Rich suggested Nikko and I mentioned this to my friend Fumie and lo and behold she was game for coming with us. Not only would we enjoy a weekend in the serene mountains, but we'd be with friends and have Japanese guides as well! I hadn't counted on that.

Rich, Max and I took a train from Tokyo on Saturday morning and Fumie, her husband Seiji and daughter Tamano picked us up at the Nikko train station.  (They had driven.) Then began our adventure as we piled into their SUV and quickly - thanks to Fumie's investigation - found a yuba restaurant.  Max went insane in the tatami room, running around like crazy while we tried to enjoy our meal. (Why didn't I take a picture???) Probably because when I wasn't stuffing my face I was running after Max.  

So yuba is a thin, delicate "skin" which is skimmed off fresh soymilk.  Then it is often dried and rolled into various shapes, served with different sauces, put in soups, etc.  It had a remarkably fresh, creamy taste - mild and a bit chewy.  But best of all, I had a lovely lunch where I could eat everything served, including an amazing soy "gratin" that tasted like cheese and a divine soymilk pudding.  Here is one photo of yuba I pulled from the internet.  It is a common food of vegetarian buddhist monks and is prized for its high protein content.

After lunch We toured the Toshugu Shrine complex but got rained out of seeing all the buildings.  Then it was off to check into our hotel. We got settled and then Seiji made some phone calls and found a special onsen (hot springs) that we could go to.  We packed up and headed to the most lovely and tranquil setting - private cottages with sliding doors leading to a cedar lined tub and a circular stone tub both fed by hot springs. It was incredibly relaxing and Max even got into the hot water. Thoroughly rested we retreated to the hotel for dinner and were in bed by 9:30!

The next day after breakfast at the hotel, we began the climb (400 meters via a series of 48 switchbacks) up to Lake Chuzenji which was formed by a volcanic eruption thousands of years ago.  The lake was stunning and we all got into a swan boat and pedaled around for a bit.

We finished off the sightseeing with a view of the Kegon waterfall, which drops nearly 100 meters and followed that up with lunch in a local Soba restaurant.  Then after a heading back down the mountain, we parted ways with our lovely hosts and caught the next train back to Tokyo.